AUSTIN H. SHANNON

That's What I'm Talking About!

2011-10-28T19:45:00.000-07:00

With the change of season come many transitions in the life of the seasonal athlete. I recently wrapped up another spectacular summer guide season and headed for Rocktober. Each fall the summer season comes to a screeching halt. During the summer month’s guides across the country work themselves into the ground to make their dreams come true. What is it that compels us to carry on? What is the gleaming desire to achieve something greater?

I have the opportunity to work shoulder to shoulder with some of the greatest guides in the industry. And we have bosses and mentors that are living examples that your dreams really can come true. I would not be where I am if it weren’t for the generosity of those that believed in me. So when you get bogged down in the daily grind, take another shot of espresso and realize that anything is possible. Just kidding with the shot of espresso. But please take a moment and look at all the people that have made it happen, and realize that you can to.

Ok, so maybe it’s the fact that winter is just around the corner, or that my new skis and boots have been waiting for a month, or that I’m sitting in a So Cal coffee shop but I feel inspired. So shoot me, or realize that there is something within each and every one of us, something that is waiting to break out and seek adventure. And don’t forget to PRAY FOR SNOW!!!!

Connections

2011-09-28T07:28:00.000-07:00

Do you ever wake up in the morning thinking the dreams you just had were real? You spend the first few minutes of your day recounting the dragons you slayed or the mountains you climbed, or the people you connected with. Every part of you is telling you that was real, then there is your highly educated rationale that tells you there is no way that could be real or else you wouldn’t have awoke where you did. Tell me something, if you could make some of those dreams come true, would you?

Welcome to my life. There is some reality in all of our dreams. Fact: I live in the back of my camper, I don’t make very much money, I have to be intentional about the relationships in my life. But because of these facts I am able to live my dream, and change the world around me on a daily basis. I have begun to make my dreams a reality, and it all started the same way your dreams did, while you were sleeping and imagining life the way it could be.

We can all agree that life is sometimes a crazy adventure, more often than not we want to throw in the towel. But what is it that keeps us going, that keeps us waking up in the morning for a new day. Some do it out of necessity, some do it out of boredom, and even others do it simply because they are hoping this day will be better than the last. No matter your motivation to wake up in the morning it is possible to make your dreams come true. And while the adventure is important, pay attention to the connections you make along that adventure.

It is the connections we make along the way that change the world. Yes I get to climb mountains for a living, it is amazing, but the most rewarding part is helping people experience life to the fullest. The people I take climbing are able to do things they never thought possible. They are able to see the world around them through a new lens. They are able to live their dreams, and wake up in their life with a new sense of purpose.

Maybe it is the change of season that has inspired me to write again, or maybe it’s the fact that I just got a ton of sleep and am now over caffeinated. Regardless, the snow is coming which signals the end of one season and the beginning of another.

No matter where you are waking up today, remember your dreams and love those around you!

Alaska and Beyond

2011-06-06T17:00:00.000-07:00

What’s the first thought that comes to your head when you hear the name Alaska?

I think about snow, ice, glaciers, big peaks, and wild untamed landscape. On my most recent trip to Mt. Bona in the Wrangle St. Elias range I discovered Alaska is all of those things and more. I had the opportunity to work as an assistant to Sheldon Kerr on a twelve day climbing expedition of Mt. Bona with four clients. On May 21^st, 2011 we all met in Anchorage to discuss our adventure. This is a special trip for many reasons; One being the remote nature of Mt. Bona. In order to even get to the base of the mountain we drive six hours south east of anchorage, hop on a bush plane and fly an hour into the mountains, land on glacier and then we have at least a week of climbing a headed of us. Why would anyone in his or her right mind want to go through such an endeavor? .

For the opportunity to experience something outside the norm, something life changing--for the unique opportunity to examine life through a completely different lens.

After landing on the Klutlan Glacier at over 10,000ft elevation we set basecamp and began our expedition. We watched as the plane flew away, our only communication with the outside world for the next two weeks was a satellite phone. Everyone pitched in and in no time base camp was set. Getting dropped off at 10,000 ft is an interesting feeling. Normally when you climb to that elevation your body has a chance to acclimate and make up for the reduced air pressure, thus making you feel much better than we did. Due to the fact that we simply were dropped off we needed a good night sleep to adjust to our new environment.

The next few days we had beautiful weather that allowed us to make large advances on our objective. In two days time we were at camp one—11,950 ft—and looking beautiful. The upper mountain had some cracks but nothing we couldn’t handle. The group was all feeling strong, and couldn’t wait for more climbing.

It took us four days to get everything to high camp at 14,300 ft. We were in perfect position to make an attempt on the summit. Its much more difficult working at high camp than the previous camps, so everyone had to be diligent about taking care of their bodies.

Day 5 we woke up to beautiful blue skies, no wind, and perfect climbing conditions for our summit attempt. We left high camp at 8:15 am and reached the summit of Mt. Bona at 2:45 pm. Being the tallest peak in the Wrangles we looked down on everything around us. Mt. Logan was standing proudly in the distance, we could nearly see to the ocean. Everyone was exhausted but well worth the work. Thank you gentlemen, for a once in a lifetime experience. I feel honored to have shared my first Alaskan summit with you all.

Back at base camp safe and sound two days later we all enjoyed some cold beverages that were strategically buried for safe keeping and optimal enjoyment upon our arrival. Kyle and myself each had birthdays the two nights we were in base camp waiting for our pick up. Sheldon, being the wonderful host she is made us each a birthday cake and gave us a very special celebration. Thanks Sheldon, I had a wonderful time working with you.

At 8am on day 8 Paul Clause of Ultima Thule came and picked us up. Oh what a sight to see that big beautiful plane flying down the glacier to take us back to civilization. We all loved the climb but were ready for a hot shower and some cold beers. Before we knew it we were back in Anchorage celebrating our success and planning the next trip

Until next time……

Let The Games Begin!

2011-05-15T18:28:00.000-07:00

Well guide training is over, camp Muir has been set up, and clients are soon to arrive. The 2011 summer season is off and running—and I cannot wait. Last week I had the opportunity to train with the National Park Service in a technical rescue seminar held by Rigging for Rescue. During the course we discussed topics such as performing rescues in high angle rock and ice terrain, various materials used in rescue systems, and all sorts of techniques in which to rescue injured climbers. We went through more physics and load calculations than I have done since high school physics class. We finished up the weed with a field day in the Tatoosh mountain range on the southwest side of Mt. Rainier.

Currently I am taking a few days to visit my mom and get some rest and relaxation next to the ocean. I am truly blessed to have such a peaceful place to come and hit the reset button so to speak. Lately I have realized how fast life goes if your not careful. One of the things I hold to be the most important thing in my life is having loved ones around me to share life with.

Gear is being sorted, the truck is fueled up and tomorrow morning I will leave for the next chapter of adventures. Next week I get to open the gate to the Mt. Rainier summer season by guiding the first IMG trip of the summer. Then Saturday I fly to Alaska to guide my first ever Alaskan expedition up Mt. Bona. Stay tuned for more updates to come…..

Thank you for all the support, it means more than you know.

Better Late than Never

2011-03-21T23:23:00.000-07:00

From one season to the next, from one walk of life to another, life seems to fly by. Recently I sat down and caught up on about a months worth of email. My inbox was full of emails from trips to Mexico, to guiding schedules, to future work opportunities that are currently taking place this winter. Deleting some of those old emails and returning some others, all in all I got caught up and my inbox is empty. While this is provides a wonderful feeling of relief, I realized one important lesson; no matter where I am I cannot forget where I have come from. As I have written before my life has been incredibly blessed with so many amazing people. I have been blessed with the life of my dreams and all of this is for nothing if I don’t acknowledge the people that helped make it possible.

I recently had the opportunity to take a group of six men up Mt. Rainier in the heart of winter. This week long trip was a training program preparing these guys for future winter climbs. I was a bit nervous going into this trip because it was my first time being the lead on a trip of this magnitude. With my assistant guides at my side we walked into the white winter wonderland of the Muir snowfield. During our week we had all kinds of adventures. Anything from 60 mile an hour winds to blue bird climbing days. The clients learned all about avalanche science, beacon rescue, and strategic shoveling techniques. It was wonderful to take a group of six random guys into a place completely out of their element. After the week the end product was much more than anyone had imagined. We all learned more about ourselves than we ever thought possible. Thank you for the lessons guys!

Dont Forget!

2011-01-13T15:43:00.000-08:00

This fall has been one of incredible adventure, deep life lessons, and amazing family time. Over the past few moths I have had the opportunity to travel the country rock climbing, surfing, skiing, and catching up with friends and family I haven’t seen in quite some time. One of my favorite parts of the last few months was learning how to surf. Upon my arrival in San Diego I soon realized that surfing is very much a way of life. Much like the mountains are a way of life where I come from in the Northwest; Surfing is something that consumes your soul, it centers your spirit. Being out in the water allows you to slow down and focus on one thing at a time. (Like not getting crushed by the next wave, haha).

Often times when we are pursuing the life of our dreams we need a gentle reminder of who we are and what we live for. It’s easy to be so focused on one goal that we forget where we came from and what truly makes us come alive. Being focused on the end goal is a good thing, however we can’t forget to enjoy the journey because that’s where our character is refined.

When I was in College I spent a semester in Patagonia. During this experience I decided that I wanted to live the life of my dreams. I wasn’t sure what that meant but I knew I was created to live an adventure and I was prepared to find out what that was. Now I sit here over five years later. I work as a mountain guide, ski patrol, and I get to travel and climb when I’m not working; But none of that matters. The thing that matters most is the ones I met along the way that contributed to where I am now.

For instance, I have three little siblings. Brayden is 9, Maddie is 5, and Allyson is 5. My brother Mason is 20 now and I will talk more about his influence in my life later. The three little ones are the absolute love of my life. Looking at the world through their perspective has taught me so much. Brayden is a genius. He has a desire to learn and absorb everything around him. Maddie is a fireball. She is always smiling and taught me to laugh and dance when all else is falling apart. And Ally is patient and loving. She loves everyone and expects nothing back. She taught me to love with pure abandonment. It is these three big reminders that never let me forget where I came from and that my life and choices affect everything around me.

During my time in college I was blessed with the best group of brothers anyone could as for. Since graduation I have lots touch with many of them and my heart breaks with the distance. I remember them in my prayers and I know they do the same. I am constantly reminded by there very presence that there are people in this world loving and supporting me. Thank you brothers, I will never forget you and long for the day we are re-united.

My best friend Eric is one of the main reasons I have been able to make a career in the guiding world. He has helped me get a job, acquire more knowledge and training, and always been faithful to push me to the next level. Thank you brother, I am blessed to have you in my life.

The most important lesson my mother taught me growing up was that my brother is all I have. When Mason and I would get in to fights she would say, “you boys better not fight because one day that’s all you boys will have.” She constantly reminded us that we needed to support each other and be there no matter what. This winter Mason and I have lived together and provided for one another. This spring he is getting married to his high school sweetheart. Through his quiet fervor for life I have learned to always stand for what you believe in and fight for your loved ones. And the greatest battles can be won without ever opening your mouth. Thank you Mason, actions truly speak louder than words.

Enough “sappyness”, time to ski!

From the Desert to the Beach

2010-10-25T13:48:00.000-07:00

Its nearly November, snow has begun to fall in the Northwest and I’m still playing on the beach. Over the last Month and a half I have had the opportunity to drag out the Indian summer as much as possible. I’m sure I speak for the population of mountain guides in the Northwest when I say, “we needed a bit of time to dry out.” As you may have heard this summer in Washington was one of the wettest and windiest to date. We had about two weeks of summer and the rest seemed to be some odd mixture winter/spring/fall/summer. Its times like those that make me thankful for down jackets and lots of hot drinks!

It’s hard to believe that summer has passed and winter is almost here. If I think through the last twelve months of my life my mind almost explodes. Times of quiet reflection are the key to learning some of the important lessons of life. If I had to boil the last twelve months into one single lesson it would be this: “We are made for love, we must exist in love at all times. In order to experience love we must first experience true sorrow.” Keep in mind this lesson is yet to be carried in to fruition. The true definition of sorrow has not yet been determined. The closest definition I have found would be the crucifixion of Christ. From the crucifixion I have learned that in order to love someone or something you must be willing to give up everything, to risk it all in order to truly love.

Some say, believing is seeing. I learned this week that we must first believe before we can truly see. What do we need to see or believe in you may ask? A DREAM my friends. Each and every one of us was created for a truly fantastic purpose. A purpose that could change the world, a purpose that could change our outlook on life as we know it. We are destined for bigger and better things. We were not created to sit at a desk 40 hours a week working for the paycheck. We were made to make a difference, and to improve the quality of life around us. When we are living the lives we were meant to live things simply get better.

This is my challenge to you, take some quiet time, it may be a day or a week whatever it takes. Sit down and look into your own soul and discover what truly matters to you, then do whatever it takes to achieve that.

Anything is possible!

Take it to the Limit....

2010-09-20T11:27:00.000-07:00

Or something like that. This week I learned that 90% of our energy comes from breathing. And on average we only access 10% of that energy-Thanks for the info Rob Bell-that kind of blew my mind. I also learned that we should be breathing from the belly in addition to our chest. I have been doing yoga pretty regularly for the last three years. In any Yoga practice, breathing is the main focus. When I breath more, I feel stronger, I feel like I can focus more, and I am truly more in tune with the environment around me. So today wherever you are, no matter how busy your day seems. STOP for thirty seconds and-just breath-it will make a life long difference.

Now the seasons are changing and with that come a bit of nervous reservation. My time on Mt. Rainier is almost over. Next week I will be heading down to Red Rocks Nevada. During my time in Red Rocks I will be taking an advanced rock guide course. This course is the second of three in the Rock Guide Certification mandated by the American Mountain Guide Association. The course will be ten days of both instruction and examination. The key to sending through this course with success will be to breath. I have what it takes to do well in this course; the times when people fail are when they forget to breath, they get nervous and fall or freeze up.

From birth to death we must all continue to breath. When life gets tough, just relax and breathe. When you continue to breath you can push the envelope and take life to the limit. I realize this sounds a bit hokey; we were made to live life to the fullest and live to our greatest potential. This is all possible one breath at a time.

Come climb in Red Rocks!

Just a little catching up

2010-08-19T20:04:00.000-07:00

Pure odyssey would describe the last few months. It has been a whirlwind of big mountain summits, intense snowstorms, wonderful life adventures, and many lessons learned. Basically it has been wonderfully crazy times in the mountains of Washington and the surrounding areas. I have learned all about springtime avalanches, and how to deal with clients when things go crazy. It is amazing how people react when everything around them is falling apart, then looking to you as the guide saying—what do we do now? I have been completely stretched and challenged in ways I never thought possible. I have had my physical and mental strength tried time and time again. Through all the failures and successes I have realized that I do have what it takes, I was made for this, and thank you Lord for bringing me through it all.

I have looked far and wide

I have loved strong and lost much

Some of the greatest lessons learned have come through the last few months.

I have realized I need to allow myself to live, love, and enjoy the life I have been given.

Be honest and straightforward about everything. It’s ok to dive in with both feet and wear my emotions on my sleeve. We only have one life to live; love as hard as you can, follow your dreams, and hold nothing back.

As humans we are capable of so much. The only desert separating the greats from the not yet great is the mindset to achieve. We all have what it takes to be great. We must let go and allow ourselves to be challenge, fail, and succeed. For it is by the greatest failures that we find the key to the greatest success.

I am now ¾ of the way through the Rainier guide season. This fall I will be headed down south to Red Rocks, Nevada for a Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam with the American Mountain Guide Association. This is the second course of three required to become a certified rock guide. I will be spending the entire month climbing, guiding, and training. Come and join me, I would love another climbing partner. From Red Rocks I will be headed to Mexico to guide Pico de Orizaba and Ixtacclhuatl. For ten days I will be climbing with George Dunn and a group of lucky clients. Follow our adventures on this blog as the days approach. After Mexico, it is time to do the snow dance, as the ski patrol season approaches.

Much luv and Peace.

Keep Climbing!

1st Summit of the Season....

2010-06-02T10:35:00.000-07:00

1^st summit …

The summer season is officially off and running. If any of you have been reading the IMG blog you would know we have had anything but perfect weather. The storm of the century brought 113 mph winds and feet of fresh snow. All teams on the mountain made it out with minor injuries. The most important thing was that every one made it down, and important lessons were learned. In the Backcountry it is vitally important that everyone is on the same page. As professionals we must constantly be in communication with fellow guides, and ground support. Moving forward, learning from the storm, we are stronger and more united.

A few days after the winds died, and the clouds parted, groups were able to put in a route to the summit. The first IMG team of the season summated on May 23^rd at 9:10am. The weather was more than perfect. No wind, sunny skies, and strong legs took us to the top. The Ingram Direct route is the early season path of choice. The route is in great condition with few crevasses’ to break it up. Although the weather in May has been less than perfect we are looking forward to a wonderful season. Lets Go Climbing!!!

Summer Season Begins

2010-05-17T09:52:00.000-07:00

Live Your Dream.....

The season is underway. Myself and six other guides went to Camp Muir and set up our weather port. All Rainier operations are organized and ready for the masses. Two days of guide training were incredibly informative. We went over haul systems, snow anchors, and snow living. Overall I am excited for the busy season ahead.

One of the greatest lessons I am learning during this transition time is to be in the moment. Life is incredibly short. Don’t waste one moment. Love those around you, and love what you do. Live for something bigger than yourself, and be remembered for more than who you were.

What is dreaming? We live, and laugh. We take chances. We go fast, act on instinct. Living for that serendipitous moment--All for what? We dream to live--or live to dream. We want to be fulfilled. We desire to pursue things of worth. We sacrifice; we persevere, fall and fail. Life is about living. A wise man once said, “the uninspired life is not worth living.” I propose taking that a step further and say, “Live your life in pursuit of your dreams and you will find inspiration.” Desiring a sense of wildness.

Climbing, living in the outdoors, and inspiring others to pursue their dreams. These are a few of the things that make me come alive. One of my mentors said, “it isn’t climbing unless you can fall off something.” Life is incredibly boring if you can’t fall down or off something. Live to the best of your ability. You are capable of more than you can imagine.

Denali Prep Seminar

2010-05-11T10:45:00.000-07:00

With blowing wind and snow we left the comfort of the parking lot. Hiking up into the soupy clouds, we found refuge in a small grove of trees at the edge of a large cornice. Everyone worked diligently despite the weather and camp was set up in no time.

During the last six days this was our reality, changing weather, considerable avalanche conditions, and great climbing. We went through skills such as crampon walking, ice axe arrest, and rope travel. We put these newfound skills to the test on the Gib ledges route. Full of fun alpine climbing and glacier travel the Gib ledges route is a Mt. Rainier classic.

While all these class sessions were enjoyable it seems that the group had the most fun with crevasse rescue and haul systems. First we gave an introduction to haul systems inside the hut. Then once a significant understanding was established we took it to the glacier. We built two anchors and lowered people into a beautiful crevasse on the Cowlitz glacier.

After the crevasse session we returned to camp and awoke to howling winds and blowing snow. A short guide meeting in the morning determined descending was safe. Navigating by GPS we found our way down in the 50 to 60 mph winds. Despite the adverse conditions the weather played a perfect role in the training for Denali. Thanks for the great trip team, hope to see you in the future. Keep Climbing!

Lessons from Pico de Orizaba

2010-03-21T19:00:00.000-07:00

After a week back in the states things are beginning to balance out. The gear is unpacked, the laundry is done, and the fridge is re-stocked. Orizaba was nothing short of amazing. We met so many wonderful faces in our travels. From staying at the Maria Christina Hotel in downtown Mexico City, to riding the 1962 Dodge Power wagons up the mountain with Carlos and Victor. In summiting terms the trip was unsuccessful. However I feel that I can speak for the group when I say everything was a success due to the fact that we ate a ton of food and learned even more.

As mountaineers we build our bodies and our skills so we can overcome any obstacle the mountains throw our way. Although, no matter how strong or smart we are, we are still never in control of the elements. The mountains allow us to be there and share in the beauty they have to offer. It is then that we work together to reach the summit. If the mountain decides it is not our time to climb then we must submit, and say “ok friend, I will be back another time.” It is trips like these that remind us that we are not in control. Another important lesson that this trip reminded me of is that life is meant to be enjoyed. We should live life to the fullest, live for the things we love, that make us come alive. Keep climbing, and keep dreaming.

Transition

2009-11-01T21:05:00.000-08:00

After a day and a half of driving Eric and I arrived back in Bend safely. During the last week the majority of the American Mountain Guide Association met in Moab, Utah for serious talking, epic climbing, and crazy games. The week began with a Technical Committee meeting discussion all of the upcoming changes for various courses within the program. The events continued with a very heated round table discussion followed by a board of directors meeting the next day. The main topic of discussion was the Certified Guides Federation. In short the CGF exists for certified guides to have use of permits and insurance within the United States. While these events were all incredibly important, one of the highlights for me was getting to meet Jack Tackle. Incase you don't know him you should google him. He is a profoundly established alpinist. Jack gave me an inspiration that I have never received be for. As he was presenting his various photos of Alaskan first ascents his demeanor was so calm and reserved. He was a climber through and through. I could tell its what he loves and thats enough.

One of the many contributing factors to the meeting was the unfortunate death of our beloved mentor and friend Craig Luebben. Mr. Luebben was an amazing teacher, friend, and mentor to so many in the climbing community. During the meeting I realized the impact of his life as others began to tell happy storied of their encounders with Craig. It was truly an honor to simply be in the presence of such a spirit that will truly live on.

I came away from the week with a new found inspiration. From casual conversation to epic stories from Jack Tackle my spirit was awakened once more. Every time I visit the desert my dreams are awakened. This trip was no different. I realized yet again what I was created for. To lead, to guide, and to follow my heart. I hope to encourage each one of you to do the same. I have come to firmly believe that life is far too short to live without purpose. Follow your dreams, and do what it takes to make them come true. It is never a mistake to follow your heart.

Indian Creek

2009-10-27T18:14:00.000-07:00

As the seasons begin to change from summer to fall, the glaciers become impassable, the mountains not yet ski able and guides are left with nothing to do. Oh, but wait. We have much to do. Many desert rocks to climb. In a few desolate camp grounds you may find a group of dirt bag climbers searching out warm sun and sand stone splitters. Indian Creek Utah is such a place for the fall season sending. Currently many of the members of the American Mountain Guide Association are in Moab, Utah learning about the future of their profession. In their free time they get in as many rock routes as possible.

This is my first trip to the Creek. The Creek as many call it is a training ground for the greatest crack climbers in the world. The long, parallel cracks are endless. One can climb for weeks and merely dent all the possible routes. With a bit of blood and even more skin left on the rock, we shall return for more climbing. Unless it snows of course.

Purpose

2009-07-09T21:04:00.000-07:00

The Mt. Rainier season is half over. In many ways it feels like it has just begun. When I returned to Washington on May 8th I was met with two weeks of rain. This was a difficult reality after having spent a month in the dry desert putting up routes and relaxing on the beach. Dreaming has been the most common theme during my latest travels and adventures. I have realized that the single most important thing in this life is loving the Creator and following the desires that He has given. John Eldredge says, "Live the life you were created to live." If you believe as I do that we were all created for a purpose than this phrase rings quite true. The idea that anyone would wast one iota of time devoted to something other than his or her purpose is troublesome. I would however like to propose an argument that each experience right or wrong is leading us down the road we were meant to travel. One of the books I have been studying lately is The Abolition of Man written by the great C.S. Lewis. This small book is his best argument of universal values such as courage and honor. There is a deep yurning within each and everyone of us to come alive. We all want to feel apart of something and stand for a purpose. Whatever the cause if there are people running, many will spend a life time in the race.

I have found my race. Living the life I was meant to live. Initiated by the Creator, for a purpose bigger than myself. The purpose that I live for is renewed in each sunrise. The picture included in this post is one that my best friend took when we were climbing Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier. I start out each day of guiding with a scene similar to that one. Each day I am reminded that I am where I am supposed to be. Taking people beyond anything they though possible. Helping them to safely experience creation in its purest form. Men have fought long and hard for their dreams. I will live each day in the same pursuit. "Cervati et Vici"

First Trip of the Summer

2009-05-26T16:13:00.000-07:00

Well the first trip of the year went off without a hitch. We had eight clients from all over the country. From the time we stepped in the van to go up the mountain to the time we arrived back at headquarters we were laughing. It seemed that the group bonded from the start. We slogged up the Muir snow-field under the beating sun. By dinner time the first night everyone was laughing and quoting movies such as Dumb and Dumber and Talladega Nights. It was so much fun getting to know each one of the clients through different experiences on the trip. One of the most interesting things about guiding is watching the way circumstances effect people in different ways. Some people were open and eccentric from the beginning. Others needed a bit more extreme environment to open up, such as getting lowered over a two hundred foot deep crevasse.

After a full dinner of burritos we all went to bed. The next morning started just like any other. Clients came over to our cook tent around 8am. The other guides and I were making breakfast and having coffee with some of the climbing rangers. Morning training began with a few lessons on glacier travel and crampon use. As I was walking over to the bunk house one of the climbing rangers called me over to inform me that a guide from another company was injured on the summit. At that moment our entire day changed. After many radio conversations with the in town staff and the National Park Service a fellow guide, a climbing ranger, and myself started off for the summit with rescue gear in hand. It was a beautiful blue bird day with no wind. The best option for the patient was to get a helicopter lift off the summit. Unfortunately there are only a small number of helicopters powerful enough to land and take off at 14,000 feet. Our rescue team was the contingency plan to the helicopter lift. It would take us at least 3 hours to reach the summit. We had found out the the patient had fallen into a steam vent and was in stable condition with possible rib fractures. By the time we had climbed to 11,900 feet the helicopter had safely evacuated the patient and flown her to a nearby hospital.

After the rescue scenario the climb went back to normal. Our team reached the summit at 7am the next day. We were able to get 7 out of 8 clients to the summit. One decided to stay at camp due to personal reasons. As we all stood on the summit, I was instantly reminded why I love this job. Each one of the clients was overjoyed to have such a tremendous experience. And no one was injured in the process.

Livin the dream...

2009-05-20T20:33:00.000-07:00

The last two days were something of an adventure you could say. Myself and four other guides walked the 4.5 miles up to camp Muir to set up our summer amenities. When I say "summer" I use the term lightly. It was anything but summer on our way up. It was complete whiteout conditions, navigating with a little intuition and mostly G.P.S. As we slowly moved our way up the battling the wind and snow, we ask ourselves why in the world are we here. Working as a mountain guide is anything but normal. Most people work a 9 to 5 job with benefits and live a very nice life. Now, I am not about to debate or justify any of the work force. I am simply stating the job description of a mountain guide is quite variable.

After a hard night of sleep, listening to the unrelenting wind pound our shelter, we woke to a beautiful blue bird day, no wind, and warm temperatures. As we began our work day constructing our cook shelter our spirits began to rise. We were once again reminded that the sweet isn't as sweet without the sour. It is the storms that make us thankful for the good weather. The day was beautiful, we impressed the boss and got off the mountain and ate a delicious dinner. All said and done it was a success. Just another day in the office.

Reflections of Joshua Tree

2009-05-03T22:41:00.000-07:00

Arriving in Joshua Tree was a bit anti climactic. I left Red Rocks, Nevada where the rock walls were thousands of feet tall. There were climbing routes everywhere you looked. When I got to Joshua tree all that I saw were piles of boulders scattered throughout a flat desert. However as I drove deeper into the Joshua Tree National Park the boulders began to build into bigger boulders. I began to notice cracks in the gigantic piles of boulders, cracks so good they appeared to be climbable. Finally I arrived at the Hidden Valley campground and discovered there was an immense amount of climbing around the campground.

After surviving a windstorm gusting at 60mph I found myself waking up to fresh coffee, sun, and a full day of the most difficult climbing I have ever experienced. The overall history of Joshua Tree is what initially attracted me to the site. There are more routes in the park than in Red Rocks or Smith Rocks combine. Everywhere you look there is a new route with new challenges. By the end of the week my fingertips were raw and about ready to bleed through the skin had been worn so thin.

My experience in Joshua Tree taught me that perspective and experience are imperative. Looking at Joshua Tree from the perspective of Red Rocks with no experience of the area my perceptions were biased and skewed. After gaining some experience my perspective of both Red Rocks and Joshua Tree changed greatly. I am now a better climber and guide for having experienced both places.

The Rock itself was not my only mentor on the trip. The people I met along the way taught me many things as well. A fellow IMG guide named Eric Remza stayed with us for a few nights. During Remza’s time with us I learned more about guide hospitality and what it means to create a wholesome experience for the client. He also taught me to keep my options open in the financial sector and always be looking for opportunities. More color was added to our trip when Mick Pearson showed up. Eric had met Mick last fall when he was in Red Rocks. Mick arrived on the tail end of our stay in Red Rocks and we would later meet up with him in Joshua Tree. Mick is the most energetic, centered, and encouraging guide I have met. He has a calming nature about him that ironically comes out through his techno beats and 11b overhanging trad routes. Mick taught me to push myself and that achieving greatness requires some failure. He also taught me to listen more intently to the things around me; and how to keep my head in the game when everyone else is loosing theirs.

Joshua Tree or Bust!

2009-04-26T21:41:00.000-07:00

After four hours of driving through the mojave desert we arrived in Joshua Tree California. Eric and I have recently completed two days of climbing. Our first introduction to Josh, as the locals call it, was a group free solo up a route called the eye. Atop an interesting rock formation we sat and watched the sun set. Snuggled in our beds, dreaming of climbs to come we were brutally awoken by a windstorm gusting at 60 mph. The winds persisted through the night. Eric asleep in his tent thought he might blow away. And me asleep in the car thought the car might tip over. Alas our fears were met with a faithful sunrise and the storm was gone, and we lived to climb another day.

The climbing here is like nothing I have ever experienced. There is an incredible amount of history in these rocks. The hard men of Yosemite would find themselves training here in the summer months when it was too cold to climb up north. The rock is quartz manzinite. That means nothing the lay person except for the fact that it feels like miniature knives sticking into your skin each time you grab it. None the less we are surviving and enjoying every minute of it. We are getting stronger mentally and physically. Dealing out life's questions and challenges on these rocks is the best therapy I can imagine, plus I get a tan...

Here Comes The Sun...

2009-04-21T11:47:00.000-07:00

Yes the sun has arrived in full force. After some snow, cold, and wind we have been thawed out and burned by the sun. It has been astounding the way the weather has shifted the feel of the climbing around here. Long routes in the sun are now approached differently and we take shelter in the shade whenever possible. We are raised to life early in the morning when the sun crests the horizon and temperatures reach 80 degrees. After a quick cup of coffee, eggs and bacon we are off and climbing. Learning to comply with the elements is our greatest challenge. It makes me think of the seasons in life; constantly being effected by unexpected storms. It is the way that we deal with those storms that truly reveals who we are. It was Napoleon Hill that said, "Circumstances do not make the man, they reveal him." It is my hope and prayer that the circumstances I am faced with reveal a good and noble man. There is only so much falsifying that may occur while in the wilderness. After any amount of time the truth is revealed. The revealing effect of the wilderness is my favorite part about working and traveling in the outdoors. Seasons come and go, we can be shadow chasers, or history makers, the choice is up to us. The person revealed in the circumstances that come about is developed through our experiences.

Rain, Rain, Go away.....

2009-04-14T19:40:00.000-07:00

I am currently sitting in the local coffee shop taking shelter from a surprise rain storm that has been pounding for the past few hours. As Eric and I finished making dinner this evening we looked behind our camp site to find a large rain cloud accompanied by wind. As we took shelter in the car we watched as the wind gusts ripped tents from their platforms and took them out into the desert. As the rain continued to pound we buttoned up our camp. Don't worry nothing was damaged, we were lucky.

The sun will rise tomorrow and dry things out. We live to climb another day...

Much luv and peace

Red Rocks Continues

2009-04-13T15:49:00.000-07:00

Buzzz....Buzzzz.....Buzzz....My alarm wakes me at 5:30am from a comfortable deep sleep. Eric and I got an early start to climb a 1040 foot rout called Dark Shadows. Most people stop at the 4th pitch, we decided to continue to the top and complete all ten pitches. (For those of you who don't know, a pitch is a section of the climb. Since we only have a rope 50 meters long we need to break up the route into sections. )

Anyway, Dark Shadows was the most epic day of climbing I have every experienced. It took us nearly eight hours to complete the route from bottom to top. Then we had an amazing decent rappelling through a gully down to a ravine with a creek in the bottom. Walking down through the ravine, we reflected on the climb, things that went well and sections we could have improved on.

We choose to use the traditional method of climbing which involves placing your own protection in the cracks the rock provides. This method requires that we take along all different size pieces of protection and then clean it out as you go leaving the rock as un-touched as possible. It is quite a mind game to say the least. Being so exposed hanging on things you place in the rock praying that it holds. You learn to block out everything around you and simply focus on the aesthetics of the climb. It is at that moment when all your senses are redlining that you can focus the most and completely experience the moment.

Welcome to my life

2009-04-11T13:15:00.000-07:00

Greetings, I hope the comments and pictures on this page will suffice as a window into my life, ideals, and adventure. It is my hope that through everything you read here will inform you on my travels so you can share in them. Without you and the inspiration of true beauty none of this would be possible.

Much luv and Peace.