Transition

After a day and a half of driving Eric and I arrived back in Bend safely. During the last week the majority of the American Mountain Guide Association met in Moab, Utah for serious talking, epic climbing, and crazy games. The week began with a Technical Committee meeting discussion all of the upcoming changes for various courses within the program. The events continued with a very heated round table discussion followed by a board of directors meeting the next day. The main topic of discussion was the Certified Guides Federation. In short the CGF exists for certified guides to have use of permits and insurance within the United States. While these events were all incredibly important, one of the highlights for me was getting to meet Jack Tackle. Incase you don't know him you should google him. He is a profoundly established alpinist. Jack gave me an inspiration that I have never received be for. As he was presenting his various photos of Alaskan first ascents his demeanor was so calm and reserved. He was a climber through and through. I could tell its what he loves and thats enough.

One of the many contributing factors to the meeting was the unfortunate death of our beloved mentor and friend Craig Luebben. Mr. Luebben was an amazing teacher, friend, and mentor to so many in the climbing community. During the meeting I realized the impact of his life as others began to tell happy storied of their encounders with Craig. It was truly an honor to simply be in the presence of such a spirit that will truly live on.

I came away from the week with a new found inspiration. From casual conversation to epic stories from Jack Tackle my spirit was awakened once more. Every time I visit the desert my dreams are awakened. This trip was no different. I realized yet again what I was created for. To lead, to guide, and to follow my heart. I hope to encourage each one of you to do the same. I have come to firmly believe that life is far too short to live without purpose. Follow your dreams, and do what it takes to make them come true. It is never a mistake to follow your heart.

Indian Creek

As the seasons begin to change from summer to fall, the glaciers become impassable, the mountains not yet ski able and guides are left with nothing to do. Oh, but wait. We have much to do. Many desert rocks to climb. In a few desolate camp grounds you may find a group of dirt bag climbers searching out warm sun and sand stone splitters. Indian Creek Utah is such a place for the fall season sending. Currently many of the members of the American Mountain Guide Association are in Moab, Utah learning about the future of their profession. In their free time they get in as many rock routes as possible.

This is my first trip to the Creek. The Creek as many call it is a training ground for the greatest crack climbers in the world. The long, parallel cracks are endless. One can climb for weeks and merely dent all the possible routes. With a bit of blood and even more skin left on the rock, we shall return for more climbing. Unless it snows of course.

Purpose

The Mt. Rainier season is half over. In many ways it feels like it has just begun. When I returned to Washington on May 8th I was met with two weeks of rain. This was a difficult reality after having spent a month in the dry desert putting up routes and relaxing on the beach. Dreaming has been the most common theme during my latest travels and adventures. I have realized that the single most important thing in this life is loving the Creator and following the desires that He has given. John Eldredge says, "Live the life you were created to live." If you believe as I do that we were all created for a purpose than this phrase rings quite true. The idea that anyone would wast one iota of time devoted to something other than his or her purpose is troublesome. I would however like to propose an argument that each experience right or wrong is leading us down the road we were meant to travel. One of the books I have been studying lately is The Abolition of Man written by the great C.S. Lewis. This small book is his best argument of universal values such as courage and honor. There is a deep yurning within each and everyone of us to come alive. We all want to feel apart of something and stand for a purpose. Whatever the cause if there are people running, many will spend a life time in the race.

I have found my race. Living the life I was meant to live. Initiated by the Creator, for a purpose bigger than myself. The purpose that I live for is renewed in each sunrise. The picture included in this post is one that my best friend took when we were climbing Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier. I start out each day of guiding with a scene similar to that one. Each day I am reminded that I am where I am supposed to be. Taking people beyond anything they though possible. Helping them to safely experience creation in its purest form. Men have fought long and hard for their dreams. I will live each day in the same pursuit. "Cervati et Vici"

First Trip of the Summer

Well the first trip of the year went off without a hitch. We had eight clients from all over the country. From the time we stepped in the van to go up the mountain to the time we arrived back at headquarters we were laughing. It seemed that the group bonded from the start. We slogged up the Muir snow-field under the beating sun. By dinner time the first night everyone was laughing and quoting movies such as Dumb and Dumber and Talladega Nights. It was so much fun getting to know each one of the clients through different experiences on the trip. One of the most interesting things about guiding is watching the way circumstances effect people in different ways. Some people were open and eccentric from the beginning. Others needed a bit more extreme environment to open up, such as getting lowered over a two hundred foot deep crevasse.

After a full dinner of burritos we all went to bed. The next morning started just like any other. Clients came over to our cook tent around 8am. The other guides and I were making breakfast and having coffee with some of the climbing rangers. Morning training began with a few lessons on glacier travel and crampon use. As I was walking over to the bunk house one of the climbing rangers called me over to inform me that a guide from another company was injured on the summit. At that moment our entire day changed. After many radio conversations with the in town staff and the National Park Service a fellow guide, a climbing ranger, and myself started off for the summit with rescue gear in hand. It was a beautiful blue bird day with no wind. The best option for the patient was to get a helicopter lift off the summit. Unfortunately there are only a small number of helicopters powerful enough to land and take off at 14,000 feet. Our rescue team was the contingency plan to the helicopter lift. It would take us at least 3 hours to reach the summit. We had found out the the patient had fallen into a steam vent and was in stable condition with possible rib fractures. By the time we had climbed to 11,900 feet the helicopter had safely evacuated the patient and flown her to a nearby hospital.

After the rescue scenario the climb went back to normal. Our team reached the summit at 7am the next day. We were able to get 7 out of 8 clients to the summit. One decided to stay at camp due to personal reasons. As we all stood on the summit, I was instantly reminded why I love this job. Each one of the clients was overjoyed to have such a tremendous experience. And no one was injured in the process.

Livin the dream...

The last two days were something of an adventure you could say. Myself and four other guides walked the 4.5 miles up to camp Muir to set up our summer amenities. When I say "summer" I use the term lightly. It was anything but summer on our way up. It was complete whiteout conditions, navigating with a little intuition and mostly G.P.S. As we slowly moved our way up the battling the wind and snow, we ask ourselves why in the world are we here. Working as a mountain guide is anything but normal. Most people work a 9 to 5 job with benefits and live a very nice life. Now, I am not about to debate or justify any of the work force. I am simply stating the job description of a mountain guide is quite variable.

After a hard night of sleep, listening to the unrelenting wind pound our shelter, we woke to a beautiful blue bird day, no wind, and warm temperatures. As we began our work day constructing our cook shelter our spirits began to rise. We were once again reminded that the sweet isn't as sweet without the sour. It is the storms that make us thankful for the good weather. The day was beautiful, we impressed the boss and got off the mountain and ate a delicious dinner. All said and done it was a success. Just another day in the office.