Alaska and Beyond

What’s the first thought that comes to your head when you hear the name Alaska? 

I think about snow, ice, glaciers, big peaks, and wild untamed landscape.  On my most recent trip to Mt. Bona in the Wrangle St. Elias range I discovered Alaska is all of those things and more.  I had the opportunity to work as an assistant to Sheldon Kerr on a twelve day climbing expedition of Mt. Bona with four clients.  On May 21^st, 2011 we all met in Anchorage to discuss our adventure.  This is a special trip for many reasons; One being the remote nature of Mt. Bona.  In order to even get to the base of the mountain we drive six hours south east of anchorage, hop on a bush plane and fly an hour into the mountains, land on glacier and then we have at least a week of climbing a headed of us.  Why would anyone in his or her right mind want to go through such an endeavor? .

For the opportunity to experience something outside the norm, something life changing--for the unique opportunity to examine life through a completely different lens. 

After landing on the Klutlan Glacier at over 10,000ft elevation we set basecamp and began our expedition.  We watched as the plane flew away, our only communication with the outside world for the next two weeks was a satellite phone.  Everyone pitched in and in no time base camp was set.  Getting dropped off at 10,000 ft is an interesting feeling.  Normally when you climb to that elevation your body has a chance to acclimate and make up for the reduced air pressure, thus making you feel much better than we did.  Due to the fact that we simply were dropped off we needed a good night sleep to adjust to our new environment. 

The next few days we had beautiful weather that allowed us to make large advances on our objective.  In two days time we were at camp one—11,950 ft—and looking beautiful.  The upper mountain had some cracks but nothing we couldn’t handle.  The group was all feeling strong, and couldn’t wait for more climbing. 

It took us four days to get everything to high camp at 14,300 ft.  We were in perfect position to make an attempt on the summit.  Its much more difficult working at high camp than the previous camps, so everyone had to be diligent about taking care of their bodies.

Day 5 we woke up to beautiful blue skies, no wind, and perfect climbing conditions for our summit attempt.  We left high camp at 8:15 am and reached the summit of Mt. Bona at 2:45 pm.  Being the tallest peak in the Wrangles we looked down on everything around us.  Mt. Logan was standing proudly in the distance, we could nearly see to the ocean.  Everyone was exhausted but well worth the work.  Thank you gentlemen, for a once in a lifetime experience.  I feel honored to have shared my first Alaskan summit with you all. 

            Back at base camp safe and sound two days later we all enjoyed some cold beverages that were strategically buried for safe keeping and optimal enjoyment upon our arrival.  Kyle and myself each had birthdays the two nights we were in base camp waiting for our pick up.  Sheldon, being the wonderful host she is made us each a birthday cake and gave us a very special celebration.  Thanks Sheldon, I had a wonderful time working with you. 

           

At 8am on day 8 Paul Clause of Ultima Thule came and picked us up.  Oh what a sight to see that big beautiful plane flying down the glacier to take us back to civilization.  We all loved the climb but were ready for a hot shower and some cold beers.  Before we knew it we were back in Anchorage celebrating our success and planning the next trip

Until next time……

Let The Games Begin!

Well guide training is over, camp Muir has been set up, and clients are soon to arrive.  The 2011 summer season is off and running—and I cannot wait.  Last week I had the opportunity to train with the National Park Service in a technical rescue seminar held by Rigging for Rescue.  During the course we discussed topics such as performing rescues in high angle rock and ice terrain, various materials used in rescue systems, and all sorts of techniques in which to rescue injured climbers.  We went through more physics and load calculations than I have done since high school physics class.  We finished up the weed with a field day in the Tatoosh mountain range on the southwest side of Mt. Rainier. 

Currently I am taking a few days to visit my mom and get some rest and relaxation next to the ocean.  I am truly blessed to have such a peaceful place to come and hit the reset button so to speak.  Lately I have realized how fast life goes if your not careful.  One of the things I hold to be the most important thing in my life is having loved ones around me to share life with. 

Gear is being sorted, the truck is fueled up and tomorrow morning I will leave for the next chapter of adventures.  Next week I get to open the gate to the Mt. Rainier summer season by guiding the first IMG trip of the summer.  Then Saturday I fly to Alaska to guide my first ever Alaskan expedition up Mt. Bona.  Stay tuned for more updates to come…..

Thank you for all the support, it means more than you know.  

Better Late than Never

From one season to the next, from one walk of life to another, life seems to fly by.  Recently I sat down and caught up on about a months worth of email.  My inbox was full of emails from trips to Mexico, to guiding schedules, to future work opportunities that are currently taking place this winter.  Deleting some of those old emails and returning some others, all in all I got caught up and my inbox is empty.   While this is provides a wonderful feeling of relief, I realized one important lesson; no matter where I am I cannot forget where I have come from.  As I have written before my life has been incredibly blessed with so many amazing people.  I have been blessed with the life of my dreams and all of this is for nothing if I don’t acknowledge the people that helped make it possible. 

I recently had the opportunity to take a group of six men up Mt. Rainier in the heart of winter.  This week long trip was a training program preparing these guys for future winter climbs.  I was a bit nervous going into this trip because it was my first time being the lead on a trip of this magnitude.  With my assistant guides at my side we walked into the white winter wonderland of the Muir snowfield.  During our week we had all kinds of adventures.  Anything from 60 mile an hour winds to blue bird climbing days.  The clients learned all about avalanche science, beacon rescue, and strategic shoveling techniques.  It was wonderful to take a group of six random guys into a place completely out of their element.  After the week the end product was much more than anyone had imagined.  We all learned more about ourselves than we ever thought possible.  Thank you for the lessons guys! 

Dont Forget!

This fall has been one of incredible adventure, deep life lessons, and amazing family time.  Over the past few moths I have had the opportunity to travel the country rock climbing, surfing, skiing, and catching up with friends and family I haven’t seen in quite some time.  One of my favorite parts of the last few months was learning how to surf.  Upon my arrival in San Diego I soon realized that surfing is very much a way of life.  Much like the mountains are a way of life where I come from in the Northwest; Surfing is something that consumes your soul, it centers your spirit.  Being out in the water allows you to slow down and focus on one thing at a time.  (Like not getting crushed by the next wave, haha).

Often times when we are pursuing the life of our dreams we need a gentle reminder of who we are and what we live for.  It’s easy to be so focused on one goal that we forget where we came from and what truly makes us come alive.  Being focused on the end goal is a good thing, however we can’t forget to enjoy the journey because that’s where our character is refined. 

When I was in College I spent a semester in Patagonia.  During this experience I decided that I wanted to live the life of my dreams.  I wasn’t sure what that meant but I knew I was created to live an adventure and I was prepared to find out what that was.  Now I sit here over five years later.  I work as a mountain guide, ski patrol, and I get to travel and climb when I’m not working; But none of that matters.  The thing that matters most is the ones I met along the way that contributed to where I am now. 

For instance, I have three little siblings.  Brayden is 9, Maddie is 5, and Allyson is 5.  My brother Mason is 20 now and I will talk more about his influence in my life later.  The three little ones are the absolute love of my life.  Looking at the world through their perspective has taught me so much.  Brayden is a genius.  He has a desire to learn and absorb everything around him.  Maddie is a fireball.  She is always smiling and taught me to laugh and dance when all else is falling apart.  And Ally is patient and loving.  She loves everyone and expects nothing back.  She taught me to love with pure abandonment.  It is these three big reminders that never let me forget where I came from and that my life and choices affect everything around me. 

During my time in college I was blessed with the best group of brothers anyone could as for.  Since graduation I have lots touch with many of them and my heart breaks with the distance.  I remember them in my prayers and I know they do the same.  I am constantly reminded by there very presence that there are people in this world loving and supporting me.  Thank you brothers, I will never forget you and long for the day we are re-united. 

My best friend Eric is one of the main reasons I have been able to make a career in the guiding world.  He has helped me get a job, acquire more knowledge and training, and always been faithful to push me to the next level.  Thank you brother,  I am blessed to have you in my life. 

The most important lesson my mother taught me growing up was that my brother is all I have.  When Mason and I would get in to fights she would say, “you boys better not fight because one day that’s all you boys will have.”  She constantly reminded us that we needed to support each other and be there no matter what.  This winter Mason and I have lived together and provided for one another.  This spring he is getting married to his high school sweetheart.  Through his quiet fervor for life I have learned to always stand for what you believe in and fight for your loved ones.  And the greatest battles can be won without ever opening your mouth. Thank you Mason, actions truly speak louder than words. 

Enough “sappyness”, time to ski! 

From the Desert to the Beach

Its nearly November, snow has begun to fall in the Northwest and I’m still playing on the beach.  Over the last Month and a half I have had the opportunity to drag out the Indian summer as much as possible.  I’m sure I speak for the population of mountain guides in the Northwest when I say, “we needed a bit of time to dry out.”  As you may have heard this summer in Washington was one of the wettest and windiest to date.  We had about two weeks of summer and the rest seemed to be some odd mixture winter/spring/fall/summer.  Its times like those that make me thankful for down jackets and lots of hot drinks!

It’s hard to believe that summer has passed and winter is almost here.  If I think through the last twelve months of my life my mind almost explodes.  Times of quiet reflection are the key to learning some of the important lessons of life.  If I had to boil the last twelve months into one single lesson it would be this: “We are made for love, we must exist in love at all times.  In order to experience love we must first experience true sorrow.”  Keep in mind this lesson is yet to be carried in to fruition.  The true definition of sorrow has not yet been determined.  The closest definition I have found would be the crucifixion of Christ. From the crucifixion I have learned that in order to love someone or something you must be willing to give up everything, to risk it all in order to truly love. 

Some say, believing is seeing.  I learned this week that we must first believe before we can truly see.  What do we need to see or believe in you may ask? A DREAM my friends.  Each and every one of us was created for a truly fantastic purpose.  A purpose that could change the world, a purpose that could change our outlook on life as we know it.  We are destined for bigger and better things.  We were not created to sit at a desk 40 hours a week working for the paycheck.  We were made to make a difference, and to improve the quality of life around us.  When we are living the lives we were meant to live things simply get better. 

This is my challenge to you, take some quiet time, it may be a day or a week whatever it takes.  Sit down and look into your own soul and discover what truly matters to you, then do whatever it takes to achieve that. 

Anything is possible!