From the Desert to the Beach

Its nearly November, snow has begun to fall in the Northwest and I’m still playing on the beach.  Over the last Month and a half I have had the opportunity to drag out the Indian summer as much as possible.  I’m sure I speak for the population of mountain guides in the Northwest when I say, “we needed a bit of time to dry out.”  As you may have heard this summer in Washington was one of the wettest and windiest to date.  We had about two weeks of summer and the rest seemed to be some odd mixture winter/spring/fall/summer.  Its times like those that make me thankful for down jackets and lots of hot drinks!

It’s hard to believe that summer has passed and winter is almost here.  If I think through the last twelve months of my life my mind almost explodes.  Times of quiet reflection are the key to learning some of the important lessons of life.  If I had to boil the last twelve months into one single lesson it would be this: “We are made for love, we must exist in love at all times.  In order to experience love we must first experience true sorrow.”  Keep in mind this lesson is yet to be carried in to fruition.  The true definition of sorrow has not yet been determined.  The closest definition I have found would be the crucifixion of Christ. From the crucifixion I have learned that in order to love someone or something you must be willing to give up everything, to risk it all in order to truly love. 

Some say, believing is seeing.  I learned this week that we must first believe before we can truly see.  What do we need to see or believe in you may ask? A DREAM my friends.  Each and every one of us was created for a truly fantastic purpose.  A purpose that could change the world, a purpose that could change our outlook on life as we know it.  We are destined for bigger and better things.  We were not created to sit at a desk 40 hours a week working for the paycheck.  We were made to make a difference, and to improve the quality of life around us.  When we are living the lives we were meant to live things simply get better. 

This is my challenge to you, take some quiet time, it may be a day or a week whatever it takes.  Sit down and look into your own soul and discover what truly matters to you, then do whatever it takes to achieve that. 

Anything is possible!

Take it to the Limit....

Or something like that. This week I learned that 90% of our energy comes from breathing. And on average we only access 10% of that energy-Thanks for the info Rob Bell-that kind of blew my mind. I also learned that we should be breathing from the belly in addition to our chest. I have been doing yoga pretty regularly for the last three years. In any Yoga practice, breathing is the main focus. When I breath more, I feel stronger, I feel like I can focus more, and I am truly more in tune with the environment around me. So today wherever you are, no matter how busy your day seems. STOP for thirty seconds and-just breath-it will make a life long difference.

Now the seasons are changing and with that come a bit of nervous reservation. My time on Mt. Rainier is almost over. Next week I will be heading down to Red Rocks Nevada. During my time in Red Rocks I will be taking an advanced rock guide course. This course is the second of three in the Rock Guide Certification mandated by the American Mountain Guide Association. The course will be ten days of both instruction and examination. The key to sending through this course with success will be to breath. I have what it takes to do well in this course; the times when people fail are when they forget to breath, they get nervous and fall or freeze up.

From birth to death we must all continue to breath. When life gets tough, just relax and breathe. When you continue to breath you can push the envelope and take life to the limit. I realize this sounds a bit hokey; we were made to live life to the fullest and live to our greatest potential. This is all possible one breath at a time.

Come climb in Red Rocks!

Just a little catching up

Pure odyssey would describe the last few months. It has been a whirlwind of big mountain summits, intense snowstorms, wonderful life adventures, and many lessons learned. Basically it has been wonderfully crazy times in the mountains of Washington and the surrounding areas. I have learned all about springtime avalanches, and how to deal with clients when things go crazy. It is amazing how people react when everything around them is falling apart, then looking to you as the guide saying—what do we do now? I have been completely stretched and challenged in ways I never thought possible. I have had my physical and mental strength tried time and time again. Through all the failures and successes I have realized that I do have what it takes, I was made for this, and thank you Lord for bringing me through it all.

I have looked far and wide

I have loved strong and lost much

Some of the greatest lessons learned have come through the last few months.

I have realized I need to allow myself to live, love, and enjoy the life I have been given.

Be honest and straightforward about everything. It’s ok to dive in with both feet and wear my emotions on my sleeve. We only have one life to live; love as hard as you can, follow your dreams, and hold nothing back.

As humans we are capable of so much. The only desert separating the greats from the not yet great is the mindset to achieve. We all have what it takes to be great. We must let go and allow ourselves to be challenge, fail, and succeed. For it is by the greatest failures that we find the key to the greatest success.

I am now ¾ of the way through the Rainier guide season. This fall I will be headed down south to Red Rocks, Nevada for a Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam with the American Mountain Guide Association. This is the second course of three required to become a certified rock guide. I will be spending the entire month climbing, guiding, and training. Come and join me, I would love another climbing partner. From Red Rocks I will be headed to Mexico to guide Pico de Orizaba and Ixtacclhuatl. For ten days I will be climbing with George Dunn and a group of lucky clients. Follow our adventures on this blog as the days approach. After Mexico, it is time to do the snow dance, as the ski patrol season approaches.

Much luv and Peace.

Keep Climbing!

1st Summit of the Season....

1^st summit …

The summer season is officially off and running. If any of you have been reading the IMG blog you would know we have had anything but perfect weather. The storm of the century brought 113 mph winds and feet of fresh snow. All teams on the mountain made it out with minor injuries. The most important thing was that every one made it down, and important lessons were learned. In the Backcountry it is vitally important that everyone is on the same page. As professionals we must constantly be in communication with fellow guides, and ground support. Moving forward, learning from the storm, we are stronger and more united.

A few days after the winds died, and the clouds parted, groups were able to put in a route to the summit. The first IMG team of the season summated on May 23^rd at 9:10am. The weather was more than perfect. No wind, sunny skies, and strong legs took us to the top. The Ingram Direct route is the early season path of choice. The route is in great condition with few crevasses’ to break it up. Although the weather in May has been less than perfect we are looking forward to a wonderful season. Lets Go Climbing!!!

Summer Season Begins

Live Your Dream.....

The season is underway. Myself and six other guides went to Camp Muir and set up our weather port. All Rainier operations are organized and ready for the masses. Two days of guide training were incredibly informative. We went over haul systems, snow anchors, and snow living. Overall I am excited for the busy season ahead.

One of the greatest lessons I am learning during this transition time is to be in the moment. Life is incredibly short. Don’t waste one moment. Love those around you, and love what you do. Live for something bigger than yourself, and be remembered for more than who you were.

What is dreaming? We live, and laugh. We take chances. We go fast, act on instinct. Living for that serendipitous moment--All for what? We dream to live--or live to dream. We want to be fulfilled. We desire to pursue things of worth. We sacrifice; we persevere, fall and fail. Life is about living. A wise man once said, “the uninspired life is not worth living.” I propose taking that a step further and say, “Live your life in pursuit of your dreams and you will find inspiration.” Desiring a sense of wildness.

Climbing, living in the outdoors, and inspiring others to pursue their dreams. These are a few of the things that make me come alive. One of my mentors said, “it isn’t climbing unless you can fall off something.” Life is incredibly boring if you can’t fall down or off something. Live to the best of your ability. You are capable of more than you can imagine.

Denali Prep Seminar

With blowing wind and snow we left the comfort of the parking lot. Hiking up into the soupy clouds, we found refuge in a small grove of trees at the edge of a large cornice. Everyone worked diligently despite the weather and camp was set up in no time.

During the last six days this was our reality, changing weather, considerable avalanche conditions, and great climbing. We went through skills such as crampon walking, ice axe arrest, and rope travel. We put these newfound skills to the test on the Gib ledges route. Full of fun alpine climbing and glacier travel the Gib ledges route is a Mt. Rainier classic.

While all these class sessions were enjoyable it seems that the group had the most fun with crevasse rescue and haul systems. First we gave an introduction to haul systems inside the hut. Then once a significant understanding was established we took it to the glacier. We built two anchors and lowered people into a beautiful crevasse on the Cowlitz glacier.

After the crevasse session we returned to camp and awoke to howling winds and blowing snow. A short guide meeting in the morning determined descending was safe. Navigating by GPS we found our way down in the 50 to 60 mph winds. Despite the adverse conditions the weather played a perfect role in the training for Denali. Thanks for the great trip team, hope to see you in the future. Keep Climbing!

Lessons from Pico de Orizaba

After a week back in the states things are beginning to balance out. The gear is unpacked, the laundry is done, and the fridge is re-stocked. Orizaba was nothing short of amazing. We met so many wonderful faces in our travels. From staying at the Maria Christina Hotel in downtown Mexico City, to riding the 1962 Dodge Power wagons up the mountain with Carlos and Victor. In summiting terms the trip was unsuccessful. However I feel that I can speak for the group when I say everything was a success due to the fact that we ate a ton of food and learned even more.

As mountaineers we build our bodies and our skills so we can overcome any obstacle the mountains throw our way. Although, no matter how strong or smart we are, we are still never in control of the elements. The mountains allow us to be there and share in the beauty they have to offer. It is then that we work together to reach the summit. If the mountain decides it is not our time to climb then we must submit, and say “ok friend, I will be back another time.” It is trips like these that remind us that we are not in control. Another important lesson that this trip reminded me of is that life is meant to be enjoyed. We should live life to the fullest, live for the things we love, that make us come alive. Keep climbing, and keep dreaming.